Yin Yoga with me every Thursday evening at The Roundhouse from 730-845pm

The Roundhouse is located at 181 Roundhouse Mews at the corner of Davie St @ Pacific Blvd right across the street from the Canada Line skytrain Station (Roundhouse stop)
 Get ready to feel delicious!  604-713-1800 (press 2)

Yosemite Fall 2012

I planned on retiring.  The Yosemite Climbing Assosciation promised to award me with a Golden Piton for 10 years of being a Valley dirtbag.  I would show my dedication to by pawning the piton for a new set of cams.    

“How can u retire when u haven’t done anything yet?” Nik Berry asked me. 

Scanning my fall season comes up with a lot of toiling and very little sending.  A decade of climbing in the ditch makes a lot of climbs projects for me. 

heading out the top of the Freerider after falling...again
I arrived in Yosemite in September and immediately went to work on the mega proj.

I rappelled into the boulder problem of the Freerider.  I tried the difficult pitch twice before the sun hit.  I kept descending, Down. Down. Down. El Rapitan.  A few days later, I dropped 1300 feet of rope from the summit.  I attempted the boulder problem again. I went again. And Again. And Again.

Here’s some footage of me on the wall.

On my last effort, after waking up at 4am to make the 2 hour hike, rappel 1300 feet, and try 20 feet of climbing, I slumped my head against the wall and felt a deep sense of failure.  I did not send the boulder problem.  I realized I needed to be a better and stronger climber before I could return to toiling on the wall.   I stared across the Valley at Middle Cathedral.

Every trip up to the top of El Capitan, I stared across the valley at Middle Cathedral.  Mikey Schaefer established a VI route up the north west face.  Father Time follows ten pitches of technical slab before hitting a steep headwall and three pitches of very difficult climbing. 

For six days, I climbed with Mikey on the route.  He managed to redpoint the enormous route after a huge effort on the wall.  Watching Mikey fire the rig inspired me.  The route quickly gained popularity with two ascents just days after Mikey returned to the ground.

Mikey Schaefer collage of Father Time VI 5.13b
“I was surprised by how hard and how good it was,” said Tommy Caldwell, who attempted the route with Jonathan Siegrist.  The pair redpointed to the last crux pitch, which Caldwell redpointed and Siegrist failed on, before descending in the dark.  Alex Honnold made the second ascent with his lady friend, Stacey Pearson, jumaring behind him.  “It’s 13b, straight up” said Honnold.

Further down canyon, on what Royal Robbins called, “The steepest wall in North America,” Alex Honnold made bold steps in his climbing career.  Honnold’s resume includes many difficult second and third ascents but he rarely steps out on his own.  This fall, Honnold examined an old Todd Skinner line on the Leaning Tower in the hopes of freeing the entire formation. 

After hand drilling a dozen crooked bolts, Honnold established Welcome to Wyoming, a 3 pitch 5.13c slab journey to the cat walk, the approach ledge to the Leaning Tower routes.  A few years ago, Skinner scoped a free line that parallels the initial bolt ladder on the West Face.  Dean Potter sunk directional bolts and freed all the moves.  A few well spaced holds lay a difficult path up the overhanging section of the wall.  With the Welcome to Wyoming start, the 200 foot bolt ladder variation section, and the free Westie Face- the entire Leaning Tower could go free. The route would not be easy though.

“The leaning tower pitch is amazing but probably 9b and has a few chipped holds at the top,” said Ethan Pringle, who tried the route one day with Honnold. After investing a few days into the project and deciphering the difficult moves, Honnold left for Oman.  The project remains.

The Leaning Tower on the Left and Fifi Buttress through the trees Mikey Schaefer photo

Across from the Leaning Tower, on Fifi Buttress, Luis “Lucho” Rivera and Dan McDevitt established the Romulan Freebird, a 10 pitch sustained 5.12c route.  First established as an aid climb by McDevitt,   Lucho spent the late spring and summer months free climbing the pitches and finding the best possible line through the aid variations.  The route is a harder version of the Rostrum, sustained 5.12 thin cracks.


Lucho and I climbing the 3rd pitch 5.11 on Romulan Freebird
“You need to Hoover your car,” Hazel Findlay said as we left Camp 4. 
“You’re cheeky,” I told the blonde haired Gummy Bear.  By 10 am, we reached the base of the Freebird.  The route begins with a technical stemming pitch.  I fell, climbed to the anchor, lowered, cleaned the gear, and pulled the rope.  Hazel hiked the pitch.  She had recently made a free ascent of the Muir Wall. http://hazelfindlay.wordpress.com/2012/10/23/free-adventures-on-el-cap-the-premuir-second-ascent-5-13cd-33-ish-pitches/  Where other parties encountered difficult stemming, the Gummy Bear bridged through the crux.  She employed this same bridging technique through the first 5.12 pitch, kicking her legs into a split.


Hazel swung into the next pitch, which she fell low on, emitting a shriek and a string of giggles.  She returned to the belay and redpointed the pitch.  I followed cleanly and led the next two pitches without falls.  Hazel encountered some difficulties on the top of an enduro finger crack corner. She led the next pitch.  I attempted the final 5.12 tips crack.  I failed.  The Gummy Bear wiggled her fingers in it and flashed it easily on tr.  I made another attempt but could failed.  We rappelled to the ground and finished a solid day of cragging.  Nothing is better than climbing large routes quickly or at least cragging them out.      

“You have to promise me you won’t fall,” Stanley said. I stared at the topo for the Nose and wondered about simul-climbing 5.10. We could die if I fell but that that did not concern me. If I fell, I would be breaking a promise to Stanley.
stepping through on the Lynn Hill Traverse on the Nose

The next morning, Stanley and I walked to the base of the Nose.  At first light we started the route.  I never fell simul-climbing because we short fixed instead.  Stanley simul-climbed behind me though.  We topped the route out in 6 hours 13 minutes.  I was exhausted and wanted to go to sleep.  Stanley wanted to go bouldering. 
top of the Nose 6 hrs 13 min
Sean “Stanley” Leary ran laps on the Nose this season.  Early in the summer he set the bisexual speed record with Mayan Smith-Gobat in 4:26.  Mayan also completed the Nose Half Dome Link-up with partner Chantel Astroga doing the Nose in 7:26.  Mayan said in a Rock and Ice online interview, “As to my time, I believe I could do them much faster if I was willing to put the time into really learning the route, and had a partner who was a much stronger free climber.” http://www.rockandice.com/news/2262-mayan-smith-gobat-interviews-and-pics Mayan’s comment bothered me greatly because she claimed her time could be faster with a better partner.  Partners, on climbs like these, are part of the game.  Stanley could climb the Nose much faster with a better partner- he’s done it with Dean Potter in under 3 hours.

I added that last bit to make my blog controversial. Can you smell the drama?  I can!

Stanley climbed with a better partner on a few other wall routes.  Alex and Stanley climbed the South Face of the Column in 53 minutes, the West Face of the Leaning Tower in 1 hour 16 minutes and Wet Denim Day Dream in 2 hours 55 minutes.-http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13510-low-hanging-fruit-sean-leary

Other notable ascents in the Valley include Will Stanhopes free ascent of the Prophet, a difficult line up the south east face of El Capitan.
http://www.arcteryx.com/Article.aspx?DE&article=Will-Stanhope-s-Prophet-Repeat  Jesse Huey made a 15 hour free ascent of the Freerider.  Jasmin Caton and Evan Stevens, Greg and Mike Kerzhner, and Walker Emerson all made free ascents of the Freerider. 

Me showing  video of Hercules at the Facelift
I gave three slideshows this fall at Santa Rosa, the Yosemite Facelift, and at Stanford.  I'm starting to get pretty dialed at presenting slideshows.

The weather in the Valley turned from solid wall weather to amazing bouldering temps.  Randy Puro, Mike Wickwire, and Kyle O’Meara replaced Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Kevin Jorgenson on the hard climbing circuit. The boulders exploded with a hosts of solid new V10-12 problems.   I sent a cool problem called Squirrel over by the Gunsight.  I also toiled a lot on problems, climbing stronger then I ever have. 
The Center Route in Lower  Yosemite Falls Amphitheater Scientific 12b
Today is November 27th. For three weeks this month, Kim and I house sat in Yosemite Village.  We bouldered, climbed routes, and hiked.  I managed to eek out an ascent of Jonny Dawes Center Route in the Lower Yosemite Falls Ampitheater.  I heard the route called “scientific 12b.”  Mason Earle, who redpointed the pitch on his second effort, said “I think “solid” 12+ is a more accurate grade.”   I also climbed a number of boulder problems. 

I have invested a significant amount of time into redpointing Cosmic Debris.  Today, I fell once on it, something I have done two other times.  Redpoint cruxing.   I’d like to send it before I leave in Dec.  The seasons in Yosemite are changing.  The days are short now but I want to, no I need to send something this year  Than maybe I can retire. 

Looking Good!

  It is amazing what a little yard work can do!


First Day Snowmobiling!

What an great day! My partner Josh and I to my new led out on it's madden voyage. It's a real process preparing for a day out; loading the sleds on the truck, making food, gassing up, packing my beacon, shovel and probe. Josh stepped up and taught me the ropes. I knew there was powder out and he has been jonesing like the wrest of us. Thanks Joshy!

Early on I knew I had purchased a great machine. It ran great all day. The sky was blue and the snow was epic. Thankfully the snow had great traction and with very little skill I managed to stay unstuck most of the day. 

Josh got me to ride down this steep hill that went about 300ft down. I honestly don't know if I have been that gripped in a long time. These machines weight an insane amount so when it's sliding down a hill they want to go! I made it with little grace, but didn't crash and that's what's important right:)

Heading back to shred Kirkwood tomorrow. Can't wait for my next shredding adventure! Pray for more snow:) and Happy Holidays!

The Priest

Portfolio piece


O encontro reuniu mais de 600 pessoas no Clube Comercial de Bagé (RS), nos dias 10 e 11 de novembro, sob o lema:  “Os homens preparam os cavalos para a batalha, mas quem dá a vitória é Deus, o Senhor” – Pv. 21.31.
No dia 10 o palestrante foi o pastor Luiz Alberto Silveira dos Santos da CELSP de Canoas (RS) que falou sobre o tema: “ Na batalha Deus dá a vitória”e no dia 11 o pastor Arnildo Arthur Figur, conselheiro da IELB, de Novo Hamburgo abordou o tema: “Cuidando dos Cuidadores”.  A noitada artística priorizou a cultura local, contando com shows do grupo Sonido Del Alma Gaucha, do grupo folclórico Anita Garibaldi e do CTG Prenda Minha todos de Bagé e foi encerrada com um show de Carlos Magrão.  No domingo, com muito louvor e adoração ao nosso DEUS , com um culto festivo seguido de almoço foi encerrado o evento.

A servas da CEL São Lucas de Harmonia Canoas:  Enilda, Gislaine, Ivone, Marlise, Rogéria, Vera e Vilma participaram do evento, juntamente com o leigo Sílvio.

The Shanti Uganda Society is looking for a place to call home

***Just UPDATED this post!!-Check out Shanti's new website! 

The Shanti Uganda Society is looking or a place to call home in Vancouver and would love any contacts or suggestions you might have. They hope to find a small space within an existing business that has a little extra to spare. Enough room to fit 2 desks, a tall storage unit, a filing cabinet and 5-6 large rubbermaid bins. Desk rental, or small cubicle unfortunately won't for them.

Preferably in East Van, but able to go as far west as kits and as far east as boundary. 

 They hope to be able to find donated space and could support the business in writing it off, or giving a tax receipt for the rental. They say they are happy to discuss a partnership that benefits them with regards to promotion on our website etc. 

It is an amazing opportunity for a local business to have a substantial impact on a Canadian Charity and mothers in Uganda without making a financial contribution. If you know of anything please contact them at natalie@shantiuganda.org

And don't forget their Facebook Page  and Twitter Page

Lets face it... pregnancy isn't always the most physically "comfortable" experience right?

New 5 week session of Prenatal Yoga at Mount Pleasant starts up on Wed.
The class is on Wednesday evenings from 630-745pm and the session is $52.50 to register (and that is only $9 a class) Yes! And there is currently room. OR drop in for $12.  The session runs from Nov 21-Dec 19. Go to www.mountpleasantcc.ca or call 604-257-3080 (press 2). Class is located at 7th and Kingsway (Main and Broadway basically)

Wed doesn't work for ya? Don't forget Preantal Yoga at The Roundhouse Tues and Thurs nights from 545-715pm. The number there is 604-713-1800 (press 2)

All these classes and more are ongoing. 
See you on the mat momma's!

Yoga is superior to all other forms of exercise during pregnancy (hands down).

If you came to any of my teacher workshops at the Yoga Conference last weekend I provided you with a TON of studies on yoga and its benefits to absolutely everyone. (Luckily there are hundreds of studies and I have spent weeks compiling them.) There are still lot's that I didn't include (on prenatal yoga specifically) and here are just a couple:  

our yoga room at mount pleasant. 

A study in the Journal of Alternative and Complementary Medicine found that doing yoga while pregnant increased the odds of a healthy delivery. The 335 women studied added a yoga class during their second trimester; the result was higher birth weights and lower pregnancy-induced hypertension compared to non-yoga-practicing participants. 

*Also Researchers from Boston University School of Medicine (BUSM) have found that yoga is superior to other forms of exercise in its positive effect on mood and anxiety.

I just added a testimonial link to the right of this post

Just spent the morning reading testimonials that people had written about time spent with me practicing yoga. Needless to say, I have a box of kleenex beside me! *sniff*

Testimonials from people from all different walks of life. Some of them momma's (pre and post natal), some of them dads, some athletes, grandparents, folks with limited mobility, children... and even peers and other teachers I admire greatly.

And the truth is... I didn't even know where to start I have so many!

I know that I am very vocal in telling people I care about "just what they mean to me" on a regular basis, but I want to tell you again.

You will never (in a million years) know what you all add to my life.

You ALL mean the world. To those I still see regularly, and to those of you who have moved on...I still think of you all the time.

*Yoga is still waiting for you if you have been on a break (nudge nudge wink wink)

I am so blessed to have known (and to still know) so many of you.

YOU have made my life more rich than I can ever say. Thank YOU so very much.

be more.

this is what fall/winter looks like in tri-town.
with the stoyan boys.
we met andrey at the front door as he came in from work the other day.
we were bundled up and hoping to catch the last little bit of daylight.
we kicked dirt.
jumped puddles. 
climbed rocks.
collected feathers.
and poked at a giant dead salmon with our walking sticks... then we ran.  fast!
making a promise to get out more.
let these boys of mine wander a little.


South africa

Recollection from lucas menegatti on Vimeo.


On the 6th of October we arrived in Mexico, so excited and pumped to get back on the hucking programme.  After spending the night in crazy ass Mexico City, we headed to Veracruz. First creek on the hit list was Road Side, Alseseca


Gearing up and making our way to Veracruz

Running the put in drop, a clean 20ft (Road Side Alseseca)

Another shot of the put in drop (Image Tait Trautman)
Such a sick angle

 (Tait Trautman Photography)

Next on the hit list was the classic Big Banana Section, Rio Alsaseca. I was really fired up to put on this section and have a sweet day boating!!!

All the crew at the put in for Big Bannana section
(Imaged Tait Trautman)

Here is a sweet shot of myself and Rafa trying to get the timing right on the first clean 25ft
(Image Erik Johnson)

Fred, front on angle first clean 25ft

Silencio a clean 40ft, it was looking on the high side, but still good to go. We were all fired up and keen to send it, but we all opted out on running the entrance and went for the easy seal launch move. Smooth lines all round!!!!!
(Images Erik Johnson)

Still shot from river left (Silencio)

Erik Johnson sending Silencio

Running the first drop on Pesma Section below Big Banana Section
(Image Tait Trautman)

Still shot- free wheeling the freestyle drop Lower Pesma

King Hesh running Truchas 1 Alseseca. This one is not an easy one to get to. A nice 80ft  repel into the gorge. It was looking on the real low side but we were still all keen to send it.I took a massive hit and couldn't hand roll -  took my first swim of the trip!
(Image Tait Trautman)

Truchas 2, this stout lies about 300 meters below Truchas 1. This is the one that broke me and stopped me  paddling for the rest of the trip.It starts with a nice 15ft, which directly leads you into 60ft connected falls. Most of the crew fired it off with style. It was looking good to go and I was feeling fired up for this one. I felt like I was right where I wanted to be and just as  I was about to brace for impact I took a massive hit reconnecting onto rock.I knew straight away that I had done some damage to my lower back, I was instantly in pain. We all ended up having to hike out due to my sore ass back. It was a bit of a mission getting out of there. Big thanks to all the boys for helping me get out of there all safe and sound. Iker took me to a small little hospital in Talapacoyan. I got some X rays and they couldn't see any major damage. Still decided to lay low and didn't end up paddling for the rest of the trip!!

Kyle Hull  15ft entry drop

Kyle lining her up and having a sweet line!!!!

I thought I was where I wanted to be. But yeah must of been slightly of line as I ate shit and hurt myself!!!

Shot looking back up stream Truchas 2. Well that was the end of my trip, paddling wise.I was real gutted that I couldn't get back on the water. Still stoked I got good 6 good days boating in. Will be back next year for sure!!!!!

My favourite shot from the trip.Was stoked I got to run Tomata 1 before I hurt myself. This thing is not easy to style - totally vertical lip.We all had some crazy lines, boofs over the bars.
(Image Tait Trautman)

Erik Johnson sending it

Eric Parker running twisted pleasure 60 ft lower Jalacingo

Evan Garcia styling dirty Scanchez - Lower Jalacingo

Doing some filming in the streets of Talapacoyan

After 6 amazing months on the road paddling all around North America, Canada (BC, Alberta) and Mexico,  I decided to head home a little earlier than planned as the body wasn't feeling too good. I  felt the best decision was to come home and rest up. Just doesn't feel right to take large impacts off big ass waterfalls. Pretty gutted I had to cut my trip short and cancel my ticket to Chile.I think it was a good call in the long run. Can't wait to get back on the water and come back stronger.

A lot of the images  used on this update were shot by very talented Photographer Tait Trautman. We were lucky enough to have Tait tag along with us and shoot the most amazing photos. Check out his website-http://taittrautman.photoshelter.com/ or Facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/pages/Tait-Trautman-Photography/292545030789511

I would like to thank everyone who helped me out along the way. I very much  appreciate the help and  support of:

Garcia Family,Mike Sara, Evan, Ian
Rush Sturges
Wells Family
Christopher Mctaggart
Pete Lodge
Sam Ricketts
Iker Beristain Van Dusen
Erik Johnson
Eric Parker
Chris Madden
Fred Norquist
Rafa Ortiz
Beav Lodge boys
Amy Tipling
and anyone I forgot. I can't thank you all enough!!!

Huge thanks once again to Evan Garcia for letting me tag along with you on your epic adventures,you the man bro!!!

Bring on the NZ summer!!!!!!

Si wey